tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-341401242012-01-22T01:39:37.057-08:00Keturah Lognoreply@blogger.comBlogger381100tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34140124.post-14680878280600815562011-06-23T05:33:00.001-07:002011-06-23T07:24:06.249-07:00

After almost two and a half years Keturah has left South East Asia. It was strange leaving places by now familiar with all the comforts and reassurances (along with the squalls and sudden weather changes) of the Malacca strait. On January 20th pumped on enthusiasm and adrenaline we depart for Maldives.The sailing is quite slow and after four days, once far away from the intense cargo and oil

Keturah Lognoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34140124.post-67210553122196822352011-01-17T02:19:00.000-08:002011-01-17T05:51:18.640-08:00

Singapore is the usual flash of futureland: immaculate (on the surface) and way ahead of everything that's around it. We are tasting already the future trip into the deserted Chagos, so the full immersion into a modern city with its malls, subway and technology suits us just fine, considering that next fully westernized country will be South Africa. Preparation involves the usual pesky

Keturah Lognoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34140124.post-67673279237231854482010-09-25T20:57:00.000-07:002010-09-26T00:36:52.056-07:00

A few more days to recuperate from the party and we're ready to move back towards Perhenthian and Terengganu. The sail down is uneventful except for the usual spot of rainy weather halfway, but before we can even notice the tiredness we are back in Perhentian. Just a couple days to rest and relax and we retrace our steps through the best anchorages in Redang.Time to go back home and visit

Keturah Lognoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34140124.post-58305930150638068302010-06-17T18:45:00.000-07:002010-06-18T04:50:44.660-07:00

Finally after so much hearing about it, we are anchored off Hat Rin Beach (see Keturah on left side of pic). The day started with a good pleasant sail on a steady breeze from Bo Phut, then anchored by the cliffs away from the main bulk of the resorts and restaurants lining the beach. No matter, being the only sailboat here, we are zapped by jet-skis that obnoxiously take us for a way-point in

Keturah Lognoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34140124.post-28061316969664013602010-06-08T03:24:00.000-07:002010-06-11T23:43:25.730-07:00

We crossed over from Borneo to Tioman last month, a week of pretty good sailing. After chilling out and doing some jobs in Tioman we said goodbye to the friends of Hamamas and started going north on our way to Samui, stopping just "outside the door" at lovely Tulai island. White beaches all for ourselves, absolute peace and silence with not a soul around except fish, turtles and lizards. After

Keturah Lognoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34140124.post-854202484361627952010-05-26T19:35:00.000-07:002010-05-26T20:29:03.562-07:00

To make a long year short...From Penang up to Phuket via Langkawi and islands in between. Lots of new gear and improvements in Langkawi, both on the way up and on the way down on our way to the Philippines. Phuket sucks, Langkawi is much better. Relatives visit and like the boat very much. Another stop in Sebana Cove, then up to Tioman and cross again to Miri where we see old friends from Hamamas

Keturah Lognoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34140124.post-38830937844513520982010-05-26T19:34:00.000-07:002010-05-26T19:35:14.019-07:00

A couple weeks go by, relaxing in still waters, enjoying plentiful fresh water, a restaurant, free access to a swimming pool and tennis courts. The boat needs quite a cleanup, and the overheating problem disappears, someone suggests we exchange the temperature gauge, will do so in Singapore. We attend one birthday on the dock, as usual being just about the very few people below 70 y.o. treating

Keturah Lognoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34140124.post-84891831019107693422009-11-19T22:26:00.000-08:002009-11-19T23:17:52.391-08:00

Kudat is a pleasant, friendly, safe, quiet, picturesque fishing town, which luckily the main guides have managed to overlook –perhaps because it is missing a reggae bar—(?!?). Being a frontier town facing the Balabac strait (a main smuggler area) Kudat is populated by very mixed ethnicities: Malay, Chinese, Filipino, Indian, Bangladeshi, and Indonesian.There are several fantastic restaurants,

Keturah Lognoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34140124.post-23534841384179643892009-11-19T21:50:00.000-08:002009-11-19T22:10:01.518-08:00

Skipping over the dreadful details of boatyard blood sweat and tears, we are later out of it, back in Cebu, re provision, hurry to Apo, then have a blast in Bombonon Harbor at the southern tip of Negros Oriental. From Bombonon we cross over to Palawan by way of Tubbataha Reef, UNESCO World Heritage Site. Tubbataha is yet another natural wonder the Philippines are endowed with. The ranger station

Keturah Lognoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34140124.post-60459383318729947682009-11-19T21:10:00.001-08:002009-11-19T21:49:36.416-08:00

Our first morning in the Philippines finds us refreshed and ready to begin a whole new chapter of Keturah's voyage. There is a nice breeze which makes it possible for us to sail the rest of Hinatuan passage south of Panaon Island. We are on our last few cigarettes and more importantly nobody has seen a cold drink in over a week of motoring in sweltering calms, so we head to a nearby village

Keturah Lognoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34140124.post-66245980114700980942009-07-25T20:57:00.000-07:002009-07-25T21:15:41.152-07:00

Our first morning in the Philippines finds us refreshed and ready to begin a whole new chapter of Keturah's voyage. There is a nice breeze which makes it possible for us to sail the rest of Hinatuan passage south of Panaon Island. We are on our last few cigarettes and more importantly nobody has seen a cold drink in over a week of motoring in sweltering calms, so we head to a nearby village

Keturah Lognoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34140124.post-315959583349583472009-01-28T07:20:00.000-08:002009-01-28T11:04:33.742-08:00

The time has come, we're ready to go. We leave in tandem again after the Solomons with our friends of Hamamas ('Happy' in Papua New Guinean language). Tom had a heavy bout of malaria fever, brought about by maybe fatigue or stress. For Fran, his wife, we have acted as surrogate family, helping her as best we could (and as best as she would let us), with hugs, advice, company and encouragement

Keturah Lognoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34140124.post-47467006989432307652009-01-28T07:11:00.000-08:002009-01-28T09:29:35.612-08:00

Nearing Palau the winds die, and a couple days later we arrive in Babelthuab. The rock formations typical of Palau are immediately evident from afar, and already in the pass we marvel at the lush greenery, the vertical cliffs (after endlessly flat atolls) and the crystal waters all the way into the commercial harbor. I have written to the RBYC in advance to warn of our arrival, but we circle

Keturah Lognoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34140124.post-74302999047801849042009-01-16T05:28:00.000-08:002009-01-28T09:24:55.451-08:00

Another slow event less sail, we reach the well marked pass (for once!) in broad daylight into Kolonia harbor, Yap state. We're the only yacht present. Entry formalities are done sitting on the ground of an outdoor veranda, the officials more curios than anything and pushing us to chew a bit of betel nut. A few shuffling of papers later we're all ashore back into 'civilization' (at this point for

Keturah Lognoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34140124.post-35768385670020386362008-10-09T03:07:00.000-07:002009-01-16T05:25:44.219-08:00

89 miles of slow sailing later we are in front of the passage, right on time to catch the thunderstorm killing all visibility. The pass once again is very different than what the chart shows, but being 3pm, at the first breach in the rain we must head in. The pass is definitely getting overgrown with reef, luckily along it and not across, leaving a narrow guess of what "gate" is safer. By

Keturah Lognoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34140124.post-19284585596249213752008-09-08T04:45:00.000-07:002008-09-09T03:39:40.401-07:00

Another short sail (one and a half days) bring us to Olimarao, an uninhabited atoll. The pass again is not as straightforward as the charts suggest, but with Michela as by now seasoned reef spotter we have no troubles getting in, just the usual stroke of anxiety when seeing bright rocks in the clear water slide under the hull. While motoring up to the beach a loud pop and smell of exhaust...I

Keturah Lognoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34140124.post-88117548961287701682008-09-08T03:55:00.000-07:002008-09-08T04:28:25.248-07:00

Two days of pleasant sailing bring us to Puluwat's reef entrance just a tad too late. We have a try but light is too faint and there are quite a lot of breakers hiding the path into the lagoon. We attempt to anchor somewhere outside but everywhere the reef slopes are too deep for that, drifting all night and motoring up to the entrance again in the morning. As we've been cautioned the pass isn't

Keturah Lognoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34140124.post-50314204600983972602008-07-15T23:56:00.000-07:002008-09-08T04:36:13.397-07:00

Checking in wasn't easy. Lots of questions, arrogant officials, "overtime" fees, more fees, more fees, anchor fees. Our passports are taken by immigration. We comply at first, but then realize what a bad thing that is. We are forced to stay at the jetty (25 USD/day), and the day after with an excuse we get our passports back. Not a nice start. Weno is swamped by mud, a little depressing at first,

Keturah Lognoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34140124.post-87102288653310876352008-06-07T23:21:00.000-07:002008-12-10T20:12:43.939-08:00

We anchor at the first possible spot, by Ta island. Reception is very warm, thanks also to the interpolation of the local Peace Corp guy. I bring down some hammocks scavenged in Noro for nearly nothing, some sticks of tobacco. Sea stories are soon the talk of the village, we find people supernice, although the anchorage is quite exposed. We have a good rolly sleep, the day after we go deliver

Keturah Lognoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34140124.post-37073218016705817862008-06-07T23:18:00.000-07:002008-12-10T20:12:45.263-08:00

Gizo Yacht Club is nice but sometimes unnerving. Aside from testing their sound system at 6:30 AM at full full, very full blast, after we paid our temporary membership (required to use showers, dump garbage etc.) we dicovered that due to carelessness and mismanagement the water was out more often than not. Complaints were taken in only to see the same happening next weekend. Not much for xmas and

Keturah Lognoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34140124.post-70229420873887633282008-02-18T20:59:00.000-08:002008-12-10T20:12:45.395-08:00

We depart a couple days later, heading west around Nggatokae and planning to see Rendova, but the short spell of good weather breaks as soon as we leave, and under another downpour we take shelter at Emma Point inside Marovo Lagoon.Couple days later the rain subsides and we get out, but the wind 'suggests' we turn around, go by Paewa again, and sail on the eastern side of New Georgia. Finally a

Keturah Lognoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34140124.post-81004291428715969902008-02-14T00:24:00.000-08:002008-02-14T21:21:34.670-08:00

Day after false start, wind dies as soon as the sails are up. We're close enough to turn around and re-anchor at a different spot.Then we depart at last, gentle sailing and lots of motoring in oily calm, tried stopping at Rua Sura but a close call with reefs coming up from 25 to 3 meters definitely discourage us (too late in the afternoon for good visibility).So on we go, another night sailing to

Keturah Lognoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34140124.post-64735079858628333262007-12-05T19:51:00.000-08:002008-12-10T20:12:45.621-08:00

Leaving Tanna on my own after only crewmember had to be airlifted. Arranging airlift from bush radio telephone, priceless. Make it to Erromango again, quite exhausted. Then sail around north side and find nice lonely anchorage plagued by willies coming through the valleys. I make my first bread loaf. Eat it with Pate'. When rested enough move again to Vila (totally becalmed from 8am to 3pm, Argh

Keturah Lognoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34140124.post-46250195925638842502007-10-30T23:19:00.001-07:002008-12-10T20:12:47.099-08:00

A few more days of island bliss, exploring the ruins of the former leper colony, diving from the jetty with the kids (befriended through liberal distribution of lollipops), snorkelling over the giant clams bred in Makongai and it's time again to move on.We reach Koro island on January 8th, scratch the keel while dodging corals, but we're at last anchored off Naimbuna village.We do the sevusevu

Keturah Lognoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34140124.post-1637387541223781812007-07-07T00:18:00.000-07:002007-07-07T00:22:59.854-07:00

Some days pass at Wakaya, more swimming in the very alive reef, sneering at the kayakers and discovering an area of rot surrounding the deck’s upper structure. Michela and me get very busy with chisel and hammer, eradicating the likely result of years and months of kiwi rainfall. Once we reorganize and feel like we got to see everything there is in this anchorage (and being fed-up to be

Keturah Lognoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34140124.post-82814689417366774262007-07-07T00:16:00.000-07:002007-07-07T00:20:16.414-07:00

The day is bright, the sky an intense blue streaked with long clouds. The original plan was to go forward to Nairai, but it being quite upwind I decide on trying Mbatiki: the island is a challenge as the reef entrance looks very tricky, a sure sign that neither tourists nor sailboats often go there. The sailing is pleasant: good five knots with a dry deck. We coast along Mbatiki, the inner lagoon

Keturah Lognoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34140124.post-15360972310542909772007-02-28T17:32:00.000-08:002008-09-08T18:47:04.968-07:00

Two weeks are spent digging and sorting out all sorts of supplies. Hardware shop after another, the list seems to go on forever. I decide to replace the beaten bilge pump. Found the only right one in a Taiwanese parts shop. We're missing three dollars: an employee offers them to fill the gap, a complete stranger. Get permits, sealants; fasteners, assorted hardware and the first money ever made

Keturah Lognoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34140124.post-16420753536565468672007-01-11T18:20:00.000-08:002007-01-11T18:23:25.647-08:00

A long winter in Paihia waiting in circles, one month just about. People coming and going, stories and disappointments. Then sudden as bad luck all falls into place, although taking the chance of accepting as crew two people who have never been on boats seriously.Last hang-ups with the authorities, mooring at the sacred Q pier one afternoon on the sly and asked to leave by annoyed customs after

Keturah Lognoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34140124.post-17280668770371343802006-11-29T21:13:00.000-08:002006-11-29T21:16:22.070-08:00

We take off early in the morning, motoring by Port Abercrombie and Port Fitzroy, then on go the sails in a pleasant twenty knots northwestern. Soon outside Great Barrier Island the wind settles around fifteen knots, with areas of nearly calm. It's a sunny day, and we don't really mind sailing slowly by stunning Fanal and Burgess islands. I even consider stopping to have a look at the big house on

Keturah Lognoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34140124.post-39653965589264208252006-11-16T20:14:00.000-08:002006-11-16T21:02:22.861-08:00

The following day Nick and Ben wake up early, eager to get going, while I'm still having the few drags out of my after-coffee cigarette. No problem, five minutes and we're ready to go. The wind veered a bit West, and will turn northerly. Still, perfect to get started, still on a broad reach all day. It is sunny again!Mid afternoon finds us between Small and great Barrier Islands, the forecast is

Keturah Lognoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34140124.post-55422158442086439652006-11-16T20:02:00.000-08:002006-11-16T20:14:22.774-08:00

At last, the day comes to leave Pier 21, the last goodbye to the marina, the broker, the dock workers (who were really nice), rushing around to buy the chart from NZ to Fiji, jacklines, bits and pieces. The computer has been in the GI office all day, last emails, last weather checks. Nick sticks to the computer, somehow he needs to send some really long message, which I read as a latent form of

Keturah Lognoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34140124.post-1161731842644208922006-10-24T16:02:00.000-07:002006-11-10T16:47:17.073-08:00

Oh! The sweet life of the cruiser!Sitting in a marina for almost a month, maxing out one's credit card several times, having the credit extended, and maxing that too...Listening to a million advices on what to buy, all the meaningless gadgets so many think you Just Have to Have! (Get a suveyor, an electrician, an inspector, a lawyer, that brand new SSB, that GPS, that sea anchor at -only(!!!)-

Keturah Lognoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34140124.post-1160888083806965582006-10-14T21:22:00.000-07:002006-11-10T16:47:16.896-08:00

I move on the boat, the first two days are spent cleaning and reorganizing, from bow to stern. I forget to eat lunch, can't be bothered really with all the things I must think of. Once everything is taken care of Joe and Nick move in, while Mia arrives a few days later. I try to give everyone's something to do. No matter, the weekend comes and we've prepared to have a first inaugural sail staying

Keturah Lognoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34140124.post-1158385927798497542006-09-15T22:05:00.000-07:002006-11-10T16:47:16.710-08:00

On sea trial day Nick, my first crew ever shows up, and we both get to give Keturah a try.The boat is swift in the water, steady and easy to handle, and soon enough we have a good command of her. Nick has no sailing experience apart from a brief spell on a tallship, but his four years in the coastguard and a passion for surfing and weather forecasting makes him a natural aboard.The boat is taken,

Keturah Lognoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34140124.post-1158383123940007142006-09-15T21:33:00.000-07:002006-11-10T16:47:16.541-08:00

The day before I simply have no energy left to make my way into Gordon's and Carol's boat, so I just spend the day firing the 800 circa emails required to keep everything running: back home, the crew, the other countless people that keep on writing to me from everywhere asking about the now or what about in a year?Sure the hardest thing to make clear is how difficult it is to have even a sketchy

Keturah Lognoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34140124.post-1158380871275874602006-09-15T20:44:00.000-07:002006-11-10T16:47:16.346-08:00

The morning after I head to Keturah for a first look around. The owners are stil living on her, so it is not too comfortable to poke around. However, I manage to take one first good look at the interiors, storage lockers, heads and galley, electricals.Just as it showed in the pictures everything is neat and tidy, and not just the interior, but also all the wiring and pipes are neatly organized

Keturah Lognoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34140124.post-1157917365076120282006-09-10T12:32:00.000-07:002006-11-10T16:47:16.146-08:00

I get a taste of NZ beer, accompanied by fried squid. We chat a while, then the conversation dies and it's time to get back to the marina. On MV D'urville where I'll be staying they're very curious about some italian guy that came all the way from Italy to get a boat here, so, offered with copious glasses of red wine which I can't resist, I stay some more, chatting away the evening. Richard and

Keturah Lognoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34140124.post-1157862891704871512006-09-09T21:07:00.000-07:002006-11-10T16:47:15.965-08:00

Two months of preparation back in Italy for this trip and suddently September is here, the ticket is bought and there's no more excuse: the time has come.Last few dinners with friends and family, gorging on our local fishes, mushroom season is on with the first rains, so I get lots of those too, since for quite a while (possibly years) I won't be tasting them again. The usual trip to Fiumicino

Keturah Lognoreply@blogger.com0