A few more days to recuperate from the party and we're ready to move back towards Perhenthian and Terengganu. The sail down is uneventful except for the usual spot of rainy weather halfway, but before we can even notice the tiredness we are back in Perhentian. Just a couple days to rest and relax and we retrace our steps through the best anchorages in Redang.Time to go back home and visit families and friends is approaching, and Keturah is put to rest at Terengganu marina where while waiting for the trip quite a lot of little jobs get done
Returned from Italy on July 23rd I find the boat still floating (relief) and to my astonishment the interior hasn't mildewed at all (a common effect on boats that remain locked for more than a few days in the tropics), therefore a quick clean up, shopping and we're off once again to nearby Kapas. The anchorage is calm, the water clear, the beach perfectly white and the sea bottom brimming with live coals, giant clams etc., so it is really hard to leave!
We are away from the main resorts and the atmosphere is extremely peaceful and ideal for long swims and evening drinks while staring at the sunset and stars.
Over a week goes by and still we see no reason to leave, except for a trip to the nearby town of Marang to stock up on fresh veggies, internet session, and engine oil. Entering the river we cruised in alright until it got shallow and I turned around. While seeking anchorage within the protective walls still I managed o get stuck in the mud and it took quite a bit of kedging and reversing to get unstuck.
When it started to feel a bit ridiculous to stay so long in the same exact spot we at last decide to move on for Tenggol. As always since arriving in Asia, the trip is almost entirely done under motor (read: no wind at all whatsoever), but thankfully there's a nice current against us which slows us down considerably. We arrive with the last light of sunset just to see that of the to moorings that used to be there only one is left and this one is taken by a row of fishing trawlers. What a joke that the best spot of a marine reserve (in front of the tiny exclusive resorts) should be taken by trawlers spewing smoke and noise in the air and dumping all of their garbage right on top of the pristine reef!
So we are forced to drop anchor in over thirty meters of water not knowing if the now almost defunct windlass will take it back. The day after the trawlers are still there and will hog the mooring through our whole stay. Only a few months later after our first stay the coral has already suffered extensive damage from fisherman's anchors, and possibly by the swarm of boats coming up with the rally going to Borneo (seems many yachties need the reassuring multitude even when doing the easiest of passages). All in all the sensation is quite depressing and much earlier than planned we depart again for Tioman.
In Tioman I meet old friends, like Hamamas and another boat I've seen last in Vanuatu over two years ago!...but especially Nobina, former crew member in Micronesia who's coming back for a visit as a friend.
With Nobina on the boat, after stocking up on her favorite drink (Gin Tonic), we say goodbye to
the town's rolly anchorage for bit of "vacation": first stop Salang beach.Although quite touristy, Salang has a nice atmosphere. The vacationers there are aware of being on vacation and are trying to get their best out of it, as opposed to the backpacker ABC beach where everyone has a cooler-than-thou attitude (since they've seen Phi-Phi, Phangan, Laos and Viet Nam already...like, BIG FxxING DEAL!!!).
No matter we have an ok dinner with our toes buried in the sand, gin tonics by candlelight on Keturah's bow while reclining on our huge bean bags and a few good swims. A couple days of playing tourist and we're ready to move on to do what we do best: get somewhere with zero tourists and lovely beaches all for ourselves!
Pronto, Tulai is right there for the purpose with a couple little beaches where at most an occasional day trip shows up for just a couple hours. Snorkel with giant flat fish, copious turtles and a few reef sharks, giant clams and then doze under the awning waiting for sunset drinks and a juicy dinner made with freshly caught calamaris. Need more?Not really, so we repeat the program for a couple more days until we run out of veggies and especially Tonic water!
Since time is also running out for Nobina, we get back to Tekek, where Nobina disembark and we get ready for Singapore.
